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Johann Zwar - The Helene JourneyTwo letters describing the Journey of The Helene to Australia in 1851 (These letters were published in the Wendish newspaper Tydsenske Nowiny in 1852. LETTER FROM THE WENDS MIGRATING TO AUSTRALIA. As having attended to a number of matters, I still have some time, I shall use it to keep my promise to you to describe in as detailed a way as possible our journey from Bautzen to Hamburg and from Hamburg to the seas. You know, my dear Wendish friend, that 92 Wendish citizens left home on Saturday, August 16, and departed from our Wendish city of Bautzen that afternoon at about 2.00 o'clock. We wanted with God's help to be in Hamburg on August 17. We had arranged for a train beforehand, so that everyone had to pay only half the fare from Dresden to Leipzig and from Leipzig to Hamburg and could also take 100 lbs. of luggage free. We did not have to pay anything for children up to two years and for children up to ten years we only paid half of the adult fare. Those poor people who had certification of their poverty from the Government, travelled from Bautzen to Dresden without charge. In order that there should not be a big delay at Dresden, we had to send a notification beforehand to the railway office at Dresden, containing the names and ages of all of our migrants. For that reason we had purchased (geloest) the tickets only as far as Dresden. Therefore we had to extend these in Dresden according to the forwarded notification. But as several people did not take sufficient notice of this and had bought tickets from Bautzen to Leipzig, there was a delay in Dresden. This prevented us from going any further on that same day. As some had already paid their fare as far as Leipzig, the notification and our accounting did not agree. Before we could straighten all this out, the train had left for Leipzig. We therefore stayed overnight in Dresden, and this was enjoyed by all. After the evening meal we began to sing Wendish hymns. As a result many strangers visited us, even though it was already late. On the next day, August 17, we settled into our carriages at the Dresden station at 5.00 a.m and travelled to Leipzig, arriving there at 8.30. We sang almost all the way. At Leipzig I went to the accountant of the railway administration and explained to him that several of us had made the mistake at Bautzen and bought tickets for Leipzig, and that they had not yet received a reduction. I asked him whether we could not have our money repaid. He thereupon spoke with the committee and returned the money. They chief agent of our ships owner (Schiffsherr) at Hamburg, who lives in Leipzig and serves the whole of Saxony, provided us with the tickets from Leipzig to Hamburg and we received only eight fares for the whole group. We left at midday from Leipzig, instead of waiting for the night train which would actually have been the better train on account of its speed. The reason for this was that some of us wanted under all circumstances to see the great cities by daylight in which Hermann Franke, Bogacki and other have worked with great blessing for Christianity: Halle, Koethen, etc. We travelled through these cities, arriving at Magdeburg at 3.30 p.m., and leaving again at about 6.00 p.m. after vespers in order to get as far as Wittenberg(e). But as the Elbe is already very wide at Wittenberg(e) and the railway bridge is not yet completed, we had to cross the Elbe on the steamer. It was already dark and some of us were very tired. When therefore many suddenly saw the mass of lights before them, they boarded the ship with great fear. However, after the crossing, when they have to leave the ship, several of them did not want to do so. After the crossing, which took place at 9.30 p.m., we stayed overnight at Wittenberg(e). On August 18 at 6 a.m. we left Wittenberg(e) for Hamburg and arrived in that city at 10.30 a.m. The proprietor of the guest-house "Stad Neuyork" was waiting for us and we went with him. We came to an agreement with him to pay him 15 Mark per person over 10 years for hospitality, overnight accommodation and meals. Children under 3 years did not have to pay anything. Everyone enjoyed the spacious rooms and the good meals. We cannot praise the great helpfulness of the landlord enough - in Hamburg where you cannot trust anyone any further than you can see him! We had a lot to do in Hamburg on August 18 and 19, as our ship was due to leave from Hamburg on August 20 at 6.00 a.m. Only 40 migrants arrived from Silesia, as the remainder want to come only in the month of October. As therefore there were fewer of us, we took a smaller ship than had previously been envisaged. The ship was called Helena. She is quite newly constructed and this is her maiden voyage. As they had been waiting for us since August 15, they had begun to load various things. Even though we had written to them that we would be taking along a lot of luggage, they did not imagine, as they said, that there would be so much. They had therefore already filled so much space that there was no room for our things. It was therefore necessary for the crew to unload the goods that they had already loaded, which they did very unwillingly. Because of this unwillingness they stacked some of the things that we would have liked to have had with us at the bottom. For this reason a strong feeling of dissatisfaction developed on the evening of August 19. We immediately informed the man in charge of the whole operation that our group of migrants would issue a complaint to the government if they did not receive justice. I had therefore to go to the ship at 5 a.m. to see to it that those things which had been stored too far down would be brought up again. At the same time I had to point out the beds that I wanted for our people. I then noticed suddenly that our women and children and all the others had arrived and had begun to board the ship. Everyone was very cordial. As the water here is not yet deep enough for the ship, the ship as well as a smaller vessel which carried many of our things were attached to a steamer which brought them to the town of Stade, not far from the city, arriving at 8.30. I, Ponich of Rachlauch, Lischka (Fuchs) of Rascha and Rentsch of Cortniz remained behind in Hambug to attend to different matters and only followed our people by steamer at 2.00 p.m. At about 3.30 we arrived at Stade, but it was almost evening before we had the opportunity to reach our ship which was anchored about 2 hours from the wharf. As we came to our people, we noticed that there was a great deal of dissatisfaction. The main reason for this was the fact that in the process of loading very little care had been taken of the various boxes. It is no wonder, though, that the sailors lost patience, as they had often had to re-load the boxes which weighed 15 cwt. three times. On August 21 we had to settle up for the luggage exceeding the agreed space. Each person was allowed to take things amounting to 20 cubic feet free of charge, whilst every additional cubic foot cost 22.5 new silver shillings. However the measurement with which our things were measured seemed too small and this and that passenger was being charged for more cubic footage than he had, and there was nothing but dissatisfaction regarding payment. I went to the phone where the luggage was paid for and told them that no-one was allowed to pay any more, as I had received a recommendation from others to write to the Senate or the police at Hamburg requesting them to examine the assessment as well as other situations that we wanted straightened out by the government. At the same time I referred to the shipping laws in which the rights of the migrant were set out by the Hamburg Senate and by which all the shipping business was judged and penalties imposed. Thereupon I closed the door and sat down to write. Son after this the Supervisor of the ship's owner (Schiffsherr) went to a number of those who had not paid and remitted them 15 thalers, sometimes more and sometimes less. He also said that he wanted to work together happily with us. We therefore did not proceed with the correspondence. Several of us arranged to have several boxes returned to Hamburg, so that they could be brought along by the ship that was following us in October. Our ship was however not overloaded, because much of what we had was not heavy but took up much room, such as 60 sheep, several pigs and poultry, and all the feed for the animals. The anchor of our ship was raised on Saturday, August 23 at 8 a.m. and we reached Glueckstadt at about 11.00 a.m. As all our arrangements except for the doctor, were completed, we began to make music and to sing hymns. We also spoke about Sunday's divine service. The Wends agreed to have theirs in the afternoon, and so the Germans decided to have their service in the morning. No one was allowed to interfere with our preparations. On the whole ship I have not found more than two who objected to these arrangements. Everyone had to go along with us, because we enjoyed the complete liberty of the friendly captain. At Gluekstadt we waited for good weather and had to manage without a doctor for that time. As there were still a number of matters with which we were not satisfied, I set out a letter of complaint and wanted to send it to the police at Hamburg. Thereupon the captain came to me and said that I should first of all direct a request to the ship's owner. I therefore wrote out a letter of complaint and added that, if the ship's owner did not meet all of our requests, we would lay a charge according to paragraph 14 of the shipping laws. I went with several others of our people in our little boat to deliver the letter in Glueckstadt. On this journey we pondered on the omnipotence of God. For due to the bad weather our boat was hurled to and fro in the water in such a way that the sailors who were rowing the boat either could not reach the water with their 5-yards long oars or the water stood much higher than our boat. The waves are almost like jellied stew (gesetzte Fleischbruche) and look as though they could not break (abreissen). We tried to leave early on August 31, but after several hours we had to turn back on account of the bad weather. It was only on the morning of September 3 that we left Glueckstadt and arrived at Cuxhaven about midday, a distance of 19 miles from Hamburg. As we came alongside, the doctor arrived, bringing letter from the ship's owner which satisfied us completely. Today, on September 4, we are sailing on the high seas. We will probably not call at Brazil. There is therefore no hope of further news until the Lord brings us to our predetermined goal. And as we edify ourselves on this Lord and can speak to him in full freedom and as a great love reigns amongst us, the time is passing very quickly for us. The Lord be with you and with us and accompany us all to his eternal blessedness. On the high seas near Cuxhaven, September 4, 1851. Johann Zwar. Copyright **********
SEA VOYAGE TO AUSTRALIA, 1851 - 1852 In these days a letter came to hand from J. Zwar (formerly) of Drehsa, describing what happened to him and his fellow travellers on the long sea voyage to Australia. Perhaps many of our readers will be interested to learn of their experiences, so we share this with them. However we will not print Zwar's news concerning Australia, since we have already published his later and more complete reports, in our newspaper "Tydsenske Nowiny" ("Weekly News".) The ship on which the above-mentioned migrants travelled, was called "Helene" which left Hamburg on August 20, 1851. They only left Gluckstadt on September 3 and arrived at Cuxhaven some hours later. Here a doctor joined the ship. On the next day they reached the open sea where, as Zwar writes, there was nothing to be seen except huge waves. With this many were seized by sea-sickness, which brings on terrible bouts of vomiting and lasted for two days. Some of the migrants remained well, also the greater part of the children, including our own Marka. On September 6 we passed through the waters between England and France, both of which were visible to us. This part of the sea is called the Channel and is dangerous for shipping because the winds can easily drive them ashore and wreck them. The most treacherous part is where the River Thames flows into the sea over numerous sandbanks, on which our captain once ran aground. Because of that he remained on watch all night and frequently measured the depth of the water. The ship's crew are well acquainted with the nature of the seabed in the various parts of the ocean, whether it is of sand, rock, clay and so on. So they watch carefully, to ascertain the nature of the seabed beneath them. They are especially careful in the Channel, because of the dangers likely to be encountered. This is the way they measure the depth and test the seabed: as a weight the sailors lower a piece of lead, which had a large hole filled with tallow. The material on the seabed clings to the tallow and the sailors know from this what to expect. After two days we had passed through the Channel. For some days I was not able to see what was going on as I was ill until September 13. On the evening of September 19 we experienced a violent electrical storm and everyone took shelter between decks. There was no panic noticeable as the migrants sang one hymn of praise after the other. During these six days we had strong contrary winds, so that during this time we progressed only 30 miles. Then on September 26 we made better progress covering 60 miles in 24 hours. On September 27 we had a severe storm, although the waves were no higher than about 15 Ellen + about 45 feet. Such a turbulent sea is actually wonderful to behold, for beside every mountainous wave one sees a deep trough, the one constantly alternating with the other. During these days we passed by the Canary Islands, but could not see them. We also had to omit our divine service in Sorbian as the ship rocked violently. On October 15 the only daughter of Johann Niertschink of Doehlen died. She was lowered into the sea on the same day with the singing of hymns, a funeral address and prayer. On October 15 we crossed the equator or the circle of the sun and on October 19 we came closest to the sun, so that it stood directly above us. The highest temperature was when one day we had 39 degrees in the sun and 25 degrees in the shade. The temperature of the water was 22 degrees. During that time children and adults bathed daily, which is very healthy. On October 21 we passed the Island of Helena, but did not see it because the distance between us was 330 miles. On October 25 Niertschink's second child died, their three-year-old boy Johann. A solemn memorial service was held, but the body was lowered into the sea only on the following day following a funeral address. On November 9 Andreas Ponich's three-month-old son died and was buried at sea on November 10. Because we had continual headwinds from the Channel to the Equator, it happened at times that many ships lay near one another, because they could make no headway. Once when we were close to the African coast it happened that 16 ships were moving around close to each other so that the captains could converse with each other through speaking tubes. Also we were overtaken by a ship called "Hermann" belonging to the same shipping firm as our "Helene". It had left Hamburg later than we had. This ship was sailing to the American land of Mexico. Because the ships mentioned were sailing to America, Africa and so on, we were all alone after crossing the Equator. There we saw huge schools of fish, in particular whales, sharks, dolphins and flying fish. The whales could be seen from a considerable distance, as they pumped the water up about 10 yards. Some whales came close to our ship and mostly about 15 yards of their bodies was visible. When such a whales came close, everyone, both young and old hurried on deck to get a better view of the fish. The flying fish are very much like herrings and about as large, only more rectangular in shape. They rise from the ocean much as the sparrows rise from the wheat fields where you are. They fly as long as they are wet, say about 200-300 paces. Also birds accompanied our ship. At the Equator we first of all saw native swallows. Some hundred of miles before the Cape of Good Hope, the so-called Cape Pigeons came toward us. Then various other birds appeared, the largest being the Albatross which measures 5 to 6 yards from wing tip to wing tip. All these birds have webbed feet and we could catch them when they alighted on the water much as fish are caught with a hook using fatty meat or pork. To the neck of one albatross we caught, we attached a little board with the message "The Ship "Helen" of Hamburg, 1851" and then released the bird. On Friday, November 21, a great wind arose, so that the waves played with our ship as though it were a ball. Because the waves flew over the deck and poured between decks, we had to close off the entrance to that area and because it was then dark below, we had to light a lantern. We had to tie down the kitchen utensils on this day and if we wished to eat out of a dish or bowl we had to hold it firmly otherwise things would fly everywhere. Our captain would have preferred to take a course from south to east, but because that would have brought us in line with the Edward Islands and because of the strong gale and thick fog which reduced visibility he did not attempt it as we could easily have run aground as the ocean depths around these islands is still not sufficiently known. The greatest depth so far recorded is about 24,000 feet or one German mile (about four English miles - translator). The depth is easily recognisable from the colour of the water: the deeper the water, the deeper the shade of blue it is; so blue that one would think it would dye things blue. Yet when you take it and pour it into a glass, it is as pure and clear as silver; but salty as though it were pure salt. Where the water is less deep it is greenish in colour and where shallow it has a yellowish green hue. On Sunday, November 23, our captain felt that an even more severe storm could las us. We accordingly ordered the masthead and a number of cross-arms to be brought down. During this dangerous undertaking a sailor fell about 34 yards to the deck. God, however, so protected him that he was not hurt by this fall. He called himself a bad fellow and often enough sang the song: "In the darkest night sailors will find the smallest place of pleasure but in broadest daylight cannot see the largest church." Perhaps this fall helped to reform him. Next day the wind died down, so our ship could take an easterly course, leaving the Edward Islands to the north. On November 27 it began to snow and everyone hunted around for fur coats, felt shoes and gloves. Those who had none, had to suffer much from the cold. On the evening of November 27 a gale began to rage so that many on board believed that everything would be smashed to pieces since the waves hurled themselves on the ship from every side and tossed it about as though it were a nutshell. All of us cried for God to be merciful. I drew comfort from Psalm 6:6 and Psalm 30:10 (Hear, O Lord, and be gracious to me! O Lord, be Thou my helper.). At 3.00 a.m. one could hear songs of praise from some of the cabins. God, the Lord, had heard the cry of His children and warned the wind to come no further. The wind was still strong, but under it we made rapid headway so that already on November 29 we passed by Kerguelen Island and on December 3, Amsterdam and Paul Islands. I would have liked to have seen it and indeed asked God for this that this wind might soon bring us to Australia for the time of my wife's confinement was approaching. If that were not possible, I asked that the sea might be calm at least when her hour came. But it did not happen as I had prayed, for on December 4 as became aware that the time was near when my wife should be delivered, the sea was still quite turbulent and the ship rocked from side to side. At 6 a.m. we were together in bed drinking coffee, when a huge wave suddenly hurled itself over the ship, covered the deck and rushed between decks. It also entered my cabin so that little Maria, who was still asleep, was completely covered with water. I lifted her up but I and my wife found ourselves sitting in water. There was a considerable amount of water between decks and boxes, cups, boots and other things were floating around everywhere. All were greatly alarmed because most thought that an even greater disaster had occurred than was the case. We had to change into new, dry clothes but every bed and pillow was soaked and all the while the hour of birth was drawing nearer. But God that very day sent warm weather so that the beds all dried. That afternoon my wife gave birth to a son and that without the doctor assisting. The captain and all others were happy about this event and congratulated me, particularly since they had feared that the anxiety experienced may have affected my wife adversely. However all went well and our new little son was baptised on December 15. He was a healthy child which caused us to be very happy. However our joy was soon taken according to God's will, for he passed away after several days and was buried at sea on December 21, not far from the first Australian island (Kangaroo Island - translator). Our captain wished himself just one more day of wind for we still had about 60 miles to cover to reach Adelaide. But the winds were mostly contrary so that it was only on December 25 that we entered the harbour of Port Adelaide. Our sea voyage was actually very pleasant, especially since all our migrant people were motivated by love; and love is needed everywhere. We had daily divine services. Soon after breakfast we mostly assembled on deck where the men for the greater part smoked a pipe, others tailored men's garments with the women sewing or mending dresses. The men engaged in discussions concerning Christian doctrine or more mundane affairs. As often as not, the sea or the weather was the subject discussed, as also the events in nature, for instance sunrise and sunset, which are particularly beautiful in the tropics. At sea it can clearly be seen that the earth is round for when a ship approaches, one does not see the entire ship but first of all the mast-head, then the upper sail, then the remaining sails and finally the ship itself. If the earth were flat, one would se the entire ship right away. But when one sees the upper part of a ship first and later the lower part, there can only be one reason for this - the curvature of the earth. At the equator the days throughout the year are always exactly 12 hours long, because there, as one could say, the sun always follows the same course. There is not gradual dawn and dusk, rather then sun rises suddenly and similarly sinks suddenly into darkness. Concerning the meals, everyone regarded them according to his taste, the one sweet, the other sour, the third think the fourth thick. You cannot please everybody. Nevertheless it is true that our cook was neither pleasant nor capable. Because of him the sick did not receive that which they needed. Otherwise, every passenger received what could fair-mindedly be expected. There were adequate supplies of bread, butter and meat, all of good quality. The captain was somewhat miserly so that I had to confront him several times. Once we were served mouldy bread and the migrants were set on throwing it to the pigs. I had the bread gathered up and had the captain in a fix when I said: "If you do not give us good bread, this mould stuff will serve as evidence against you when we lodge a protest." We immediately received good bread. On another occasion a large barrel of smelly water was set out for our use, but when we complained to the captain we received another and better supply. Even though I was required to present all these complaints, the captain did not hate me, rather liked me the more for it and said as my wife approached the time of her confinement that he was ready to place everything he had at her disposal. He also showed me the ocean charts on which the sea lanes and also the sandbanks and danger spots were indicated. After our arrival at Port Adelaide Ponich was sent to Rosedale to ask our acquaintances there to fetch us. As we have time the rest of us went to the town of Adelaide. We were not attracted by the country around Port Adelaide. However because we saw that the people there were not poor and cattle were plentiful we concluded that the land was fertile. In Adelaide we learnt that our acquaintances in Rosedale, to whom Ponich had been sent, had sold their properties and planned to settle at Portland Bay with their Wend and German friends from Melbourne. So we decided, regardless of whether it would be better or worse there, to move there also so that we could be together. When Ponich returned, he confirmed that our people there had disposed of their properties but would only be transferring to the new area in March. Now we were at a loss to know what to do with our baggage, whether we should have it brought to shore only to load it back on board a few months later. This seemed rather an expensive business, also our captain who was to sail from Adelaide to Melbourne passing near Portland Bay would only have been too pleased to take us along. However because our Rosedale brethren were keen for us to help them with the harvest, they came to get us with quite a few wagons. In view of this we rented a house in Port Adelaide to store our goods, taking with us to Rosedale only what was really needed. I mentioned above that we all wanted to move with our friends to Portland Bay. However, nothing came of that. Only a few went, among them Hundrack, Burger, Miertschink and Rentsch who came from Kuppritz. They left Rosedale and district in April. They decided to relocate, because they were searching for a region with adequate water and large trees. In this they were successful, for various shepherds who had been there told us that such country was available, although in their opinion it was more suitable for grazing than for cropping. In Australia the presence of large trees is an indication that the soil is cold, unsuitable for agriculture. Despite this, I still wish to visit that part this year to inspect the country. In the meantime I want to purchase a section here. Hempel, Wukatsch, Zimmer, Graf and a number of others plan to do the same. ********* Note by editor: Soon we hope to publish Ponich's letter which has only just arrived, written in cheerful strain. In it he reports on the experiences of the Australian Wends at Portland Bay. _________________ |